September 19, 2024
Food & Drink, Feature, Food & Drink, Features, Featured,
Chefs Leina Horii and Brian Lea
Since chefs Leina Horii and Brian Lea opened their Highland Yards dining destination Kisser last year, the Japanese comfort food spot has quickly risen through the ranks as a James Beard Award semifinalist and one of Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants.
Now, the husband-and-wife duo has been named among Food & Wine Magazine’s Best New Chefs, an honor shared by acclaimed names like Erika Council, Karyn Tomlinson and Lawrence “LT” Smith.
The publication’s annual guide awards chefs for the exceptional dining experience they provide, their high-caliber culinary creations and their overall commitment to excellence in the gastronomic field.
Interior details at Kisser
During the vetting process, editors travel the country to sample menu offerings in dozens of cities at hundreds of restaurants—and chefs Horii and Lea have officially made the cut.
Since Food & Wine Magazine published its first annual list of the best new chefs in the country in 1988, two other Strategic Hospitality chefs have received this honor, including chef Julia Sullivan of Henrietta Red in 2018 and chef Josh Habiger, alongside chef Erik Anderson, in 2012 while at The Catbird Seat.
Chefs Lea and Horii are the only chefs to receive this recognition while based in Nashville.
Kisser’s spicy miso bowl with wheat-based noodles and a confit duck leg
Throughout his career, Lea has worked with acclaimed chefs like Charlie Palmer, Jose Andres, Jordan Kahn and Sean Brock at acclaimed restaurants, including Husk, Trois Mec, Le Sel and Bastian.
It was at Trois Mec where Lea met his Horii, his wife-to-be, who graduated pre-med from NYU and is the daughter of restaurant owners.
The pair opened Kisser in 2023, a warm, inviting dining concept that pays homage to the Japanese kissaten—a traditional neighborhood café.
Chefs Lea and Horii have curated the menu to incorporate fan-favorite small bites—from snow crab onigiri to beef tartare—and main courses like chicken katsu curry rice, beef tataki udon and chilled ramen salad with a confit duck leg.
Kisser’s inari topped with shrimp and masago
The eatery also offers Japanese breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays, with highlights like miso-marinated cobia, three vegetable sides, tamagoyaki, miso soup and furikake rice.
See also: The 3 Best Spots For Elevated Bar Fare In Nashville
Photography by: Photos of Kisser restaurant by Camille Tambunting